Kickin’ Facts | Black leaders of the sneaker industry demand more than brands’ “Black Lives Matter” posts and donations

Over 200 Black and Brown designers, brand directors, execs, and more in the sneaker industry had a meeting to propose solutions in their field because the BLM posts they saw companies post are cute, but not enough.

  /  06.24.2020

 

“Kickin’ Facts” is REVOLT’s sneaker column, written by sneaker expert Jazerai Allen-Lord, where she dives into the culture and discusses all things kicks with a special emphasis on black people who are in the scene, but who the now very-gentrified sneaker industry often overlooks. Come here for the real from an absolute sneakerhead who truly is of the culture.

The sneaker industry’s response to the revolution has been a frenzy of Black Lives Matter ads engulfing our feeds, accompanied by actionable strategies and declarations of support from our beloved sneaker brands. Yet according to 215 Black and Brown employees working in the industry, the statements were cute, the donations were kind, but they are still not enough.

The broken systems that regulate the sneaker industry have broken the silence of those employees (and more), who are ready to not only bring attention to the ways that it keeps Black people out but proposes a list of solutions to build a more equitable system. This is exclusively important for Black and Brown people in the thriving sneaker business, which notably would not exist, if not for us.

No one knows the Black sneaker industry experience better than former Nike executive and PENSOLE founder D’Wayne Edwards, who called a family meeting on Juneteenth for Black and Brown industry employees to begin planning the solution to the revolution. Responding to the emotional rollercoaster that most Black people are on, and the news coming out of Nike and Adidas, Edwards understood that it was essential to remove the brand separateness and create unity. Remembering the Black joy he felt through the community at the African-American Footwear Forum, he leaned into the platform to center the conversation, making it possible to take power back into our own hands.

“In 2018, we had the first African-American Footwear Forum in D.C., and it was the first time any of us [Black sneaker industry professionals] were in a room where we were not outnumbered. The energy of all of us being together was unlike anything we ever felt before, and I felt more than ever we needed that feeling back. We all were hurting from our individual experiences over the last few weeks, and we needed to be united.

In this industry, we are separated by brand logos, but, during this time, we need to come together as PEOPLE because our actions in this industry from this point forward will dictate the future of this industry for us, and we cannot let a logo mess that up. It’s time for us to come together, so we can unite a larger voice to offer up solutions on how we feel and what our industry should do as we pursue equality for the immediate and future.

We FINALLY have the industry’s attention, and they apologized with their words, made promises with their financial commitments, and I feel now it is on us to come together to hold them accountable, so we have a seat at the table. At the same time, we have to hold ourselves accountable to be the change we want to see.”

– Former Nike executive and PENSOLE founder D’Wayne Edwards

On the call were 215 Black sneaker retail store owners, designers, brand directors, content creators, investors, educators, HR managers, agency executives, and more. From Switzerland to California, we gathered for hours over Zoom on Juneteenth to share stories of triumph and trauma, much like our ancestors probably did (well, except for the Zoom). The intent? To generate a census of Black employees — because there’s power in numbers — appended by a menu of solutions to equip any employee at any business to petition for change.

Key areas of focus were immediately discovered, beginning with the most fundamental piece of business: The hiring pipeline.

Recruitment and Retention

One of the topline discussions was concerning the recruitment process where simply put, Black people can’t get in. While recruiters and hiring managers have goals set for other facets of diversity, according to former Reebok recruiter Darla DeGrace, there are few, if any, goals set for that at the brands she has experience with. With no incentive to diversify your hiring slate, and no opportunity to be upskilled on developing a diversity recruitment strategy, recruiters aren’t actively looking to fill positions with Black people. Then, we have to consider the added barriers to entry, such as hiring managers not seeing transferable skills, potential hiring biases for ethnic-sounding names, or having to be overqualified with a degree from a respectable institution. At the same time, as noted by DeGrace:

“…our white counterparts frequently show up with nothing but potential. But, when it comes to diverse hires, you’re basically looking to fill junior roles with overqualified, highly educated, experienced, and accomplished Black professionals.”

We see the effects of that in Nike’s 2019 Diversity numbers, which are not pleasant to look at. Under 10% of Nike’s vice presidents identified as Black, moreover, only 4.8% of Nike’s directors were reported to be Black. Adidas reports similar numbers in their organization, with less than 5% of employees at the brand’s North American Headquarters identifying as Black and the issues so widespread that Black employees recently presented their leadership with a State of Emergency.

“As the only person of color filling these spaces, you take on the heavy responsibility of being expected to represent your ENTIRE culture while simultaneously, working twice as hard as your counterparts, in a sense to unconsciously break the criticism of “Oh she’s a diversity hire” when in reality you are well capable.”

– Alicia Pinckney, Global Apparel Designer

For the Black people who make it through the multiple barriers to entry and actually become an employee, retention swiftly becomes a problem. With few people who look like you in the office and few Black people in leadership roles who can advocate on your behalf, the work environment often fails to support feedback culture, while serving as breeding grounds for toxic engagements and daily microaggressions.

“The industry won’t save us. Brand reactions to BLM that I’ve seen are at best well-intentioned and performative, and at their worst, flat out lies that gaslight Black employees and reinforce white supremacy. As Black employees in the sneaker industry know all too well — regardless if you’re one of the many on the retail floor or the select few in the corporate office — few brands seem to be focusing on the retention of their Black employees. And it’s been that way since the jump. That’s why, for a lot of us, we felt the need to make our own spaces – or quit.”

– Heather White, Former Head of Lifestyle Marketing, New Balance; Current Head of Marketing, INBOUND, and CEO of TrillFit, Inc.

Edwards used the Juneteenth call to channel the anger and lean into solutions, understanding that we are in a time of crisis, and while we must continue to fight the system, we need to also help ourselves. The call to action was first directed at us, as individuals, who need to do a better job of not only looking after our own within the confines of these companies, but also connect with allies and mentors from all backgrounds who can help us navigate the path to success. Cultural education was powerfully advocated for as well, opening doors of understanding and empathy, replacing judgment and racial missteps. Edwards also encouraged the idea of a personal business plan: The concept of handling ourselves, as Black individuals, as our own brand. This means setting our own KPIs, projecting our own growth, monitoring our own progress, and identifying who our partners need to be to continue to strengthen that personal brand.

Community and Support

With headquarters of the major players in the sneaker industry situated in cities with prominent racial tensions, building a community for aspiring Black industry professionals — who often have to relocate to said cities to elevate in their career — has been beyond challenging. Questions like, “Where can I get a fade?” and, “Who knows a Black therapist?” are continually at the top of the list for new hires, sparking the AAFF call attendees to further support a Black community Green Book of sorts to be created for both Portland and Boston.

When speaking of community, it goes both ways. Aside from establishing the feeling of one where there is none, there was a reverberating call for the brands to increase what community involvement looks like from their seat. It’s time for sneaker companies to do more than just give additional dollars to existing programs that have already been developed. They need to immerse themselves in the Black cultural experience and education system — through HBCUs and beyond. Creating programs and spaces that support us entering the pipeline is the first step to shifting our position as Black people from consumers to contributors to the growing sneaker industry.

Because all we need is access.

The sneaker industry’s existence alone is proof that we been had the juice.

 

YOU MIGHT ALSO LIKE

YOU MIGHT ALSO LIKE

View More

YOU MIGHT ALSO LIKE

YOU MIGHT ALSO LIKE

View More

Trending

Walmart has the home essentials for everyone on your holiday shopping list

Below, our gift guide highlights some of our favorite Walmart finds for anyone in need of a home refresh.

  /  11.24.2023

5 things you need to know about the 2023 Billboard Music Awards

“REVOLT Black News” correspondent Kennedy Rue counts down the top five moments from the 2023 Billboard Music Awards, including surprising wins, historic firsts, and dope performances. Sponsored by Amazon.

  /  11.20.2023

Walmart's HBCU Black and Unlimited Tour kicks off at Central State University

On Oct. 10, Walmart unveiled a brand new, state of the art creative studio on the campus of Central State University.

  /  11.14.2023

The Walmart HBCU Black & Unlimited Tour visited Mississippi Valley State University

The Walmart HBCU Black & Unlimited Tour made its final stop at Mississippi Valley State University (MVSU) and left a lasting impact on students and alumni alike.

  /  11.22.2023

Walmart continues HBCU Black & Unlimited Tour during lively Virginia State University stop

After unveiling their state of the art creative studio on the campus of Central State University, Walmart brought the HBCU Black & Unlimited Tour to Virginia State University (VSU) on Oct. 13.

  /  11.14.2023

Walmart HBCU Black & Unlimited Tour brings attention and wisdom to North Carolina Central University

On Oct. 17, Walmart brought the third stop of the HBCU Black & Unlimited Tour to North Carolina Central University (NCCU).

  /  11.15.2023

Walmart's HBCU Black and Unlimited Tour kicked off at Central State University

In October, Walmart unveiled a brand new, state of the art creative studio on the campus of Central State University. The HBCU located in Wilberforce, OH was the first stop on Walmart’s Black and Unlimited HBCU Tour.

  /  11.28.2023

Dig In & Drink Up | 'Bet on Black'

In this new episode of ‘Bet on Black,’ food and beverage take center stage as aspiring Black entrepreneurs from It’s Seasoned, Black Farmer Box, and Moors Brewing Co. present their business ideas to judges with mentorship from Melissa Butler. Watch here!

  /  11.15.2023

The Auditions | 'Shoot Your Shot'

The competition begins at REVOLT WORLD as rising rappers, singers, and musicians line up to audition for their spot on the main stage. Brought to you by McDonald’s.

  /  11.28.2023

Walmart brings in heavy-hitters for Black and Unlimited Tour panel

REVOLT is continuing its impactful partnership with Walmart by teaming up to showcase Black creatives at HBCUs all-across America. The panel consisted of three experienced, accomplished Black HBCU alumni: Actor and media personality Terrence J, entertainment attorney John T. Rose, and actress and “REVOLT Black News” correspondent Kennedy-Rue McCullough.

  /  11.30.2023

Dr. Jaqueline Echols' mission to cure environmental racism

The health of a community can often be traced to the health of the environment that surrounds it. In Atlanta, a woman named Dr. Jaqueline Echols has dedicated her life to helping ensure that people in economically underserved communities have clean rivers – for better health and for the joy of outdoor recreational space.

  /  12.01.2023

Groovey Lew on hip hop style, Johnell Young's industry secrets, BGS salon's wig mastery and more | 'Black Girl Stuff'

Fashion King Groovey Lew on masterminding hip-hop’s most iconic looks. Actor Johnell Young reveals the secret to breaking into the entertainment industry. Celebrity hairstylist Dontay Savoy and got2B ambassador Tokyo Stylez are in the BGS Salon with the perfect wig install. Plus, comedian Lauren Knight performs.

  /  11.15.2023

Investing in stocks in a recession | 'Maconomics'

Host Ross Mac provides useful advice for preparing your personal finances in the event of a recession. He emphasizes the importance of budgeting properly, building an emergency fund, and maintaining discipline when investing.

  /  11.21.2023

Pheelz talks expressing himself through music & his biggest inspirations | 'On In 5'

On this all-new episode of “On In 5,” multitalented Nigerian artist Pheelz opens up about waiting for his opportunity to fully express himself through music, his inspirations and emotions, and the musical icons he grew up admiring. Watch!

  /  07.11.2023

Tiffany Haddish on therapy, wild fan interactions & the upcoming 'Haunted Mansion' movie | 'The Jason Lee Show'

On this all-new episode of “The Jason Lee Show,” the one and only Tiffany Haddish sits for a must-watch conversation about wild interactions with fans, her new movie ‘Haunted Mansion,’ bringing her therapist on dates, and being present. Watch the hilarious interview here.

  /  07.12.2023

Kareem Cook talks growing up in The Bronx, studying at Duke & networking | 'The Blackprint with Detavio Samuels'

On this all-new episode of “The Blackprint with Detavio Samuels,” the host and REVOLT CEO sits down with Kareem Cook. Throughout the introspective episode, Cook talks growing up in The Bronx, studying at Duke and being nervous to be in the South at the time, network vs. education, taking advantage of your opportunities, and connecting with Debbie Allen. Watch!

  /  07.10.2023

BNXN talks leaving IT for music, linking with Wizkid, going viral & new album | 'On In 5'

For this all-new episode of “On In 5,” singer-songwriter BNXN discusses his journey from IT to music, finding his voice and originality, linking up with Wizkid for their hits “Mood” and “Many Ways,” and what fans can expect from him this year — including a new album. Watch the full episode here!

  /  08.08.2023

Best chef's kiss | 'Bet on Black'

“Bet on Black” is back with an all-new season! Watch as judges Pinky Cole, Bun B, Van Lathan, and Target’s Melanie Gatewood-Hall meet new contestants and hear pitches from entrepreneurs Saucy D and Chef Diva Dawg.

  /  10.24.2023

Good taste test | 'Bet on Black'

With the help of host Dustin Ross and correspondent Danielle Young, entrepreneurs Diva Dawg, Brooklyn Tea, and The Sable Collective pitch their ideas to the judges. Watch the all-new episode of “Bet on Black” now!

  /  10.31.2023

DDG has his sights set on becoming a fashion hero & talks Halle Bailey being his "best friend"

In this exclusive interview, DDG opens up about his fashion inspiration, what drew him to girlfriend Halle Bailey, dealing with negative opinions about his relationship, and more. Read up!

  /  11.28.2023
View More
Revolt - New Episodes