YASSSS! New York Fashion Week is finally upon us and we’ve got so much to look forward to this year. From politically-charged garments to athleisure, this year is all about bedazzling the simple things and making a bold statement. We got the chance to enjoy some of your favorite designer shows and hang with hip-hop’s finest front row.
Here’s what happening in fashion for 2018!
Jeremy Scott lives in a playland all of his own. His acute understanding of the best ways to accentuate the woman’s most seductive body parts without compromising youth makes him every young adult’s favorite. Down the runway walked Scott’s 80s sci-fi wardrobe fantasies with over-the-knee fluorescent moon boots, velvet underbust cropped sweatshirts and hoodies, splattered sheer tops and bottoms, and let’s not forget the circular disc style dresses. After 20 years in the business, the essence of Scott’s very imaginative mind always proves to know no limits. While most of this collection reminds us of Nicki Minaj’s wardrobe circa 2008, we do wonder how some of these loud pieces will appear on our favorites like Cardi B, who sat front row. Only a stylist with true vision will be able to take these statement pieces and develop a look appropriate for courtside to red carpet.
The stars were stacked at the Tom Ford show with a front row that included Pusha T, Lala, Ciara and Russell Wilson and Russell Westbrook. Ford, like many other designers, is aware of the importance of the celebrities in attendance to his show. Ford has always pushed for diversity in fashion so the myriad of hip-hop’s finest was not shocking. His garments are renowned for pristine tailoring and jaw-dropping formal attire; however, this collection had a little more sass. The designer was evidently inspired by 80s fashion with his repeated use of sequins leggings, leopard prints, headbands, chunky earrings and strong pointed shoulders. While most of our favorite front-row attendees were draped in clothing that screams “black-tie event,” it will be very interesting to see how they add personality to these styles this year. One thing is for sure: Rihanna is definitely going to have a swooning over how she rocks these clothes with a Tom Ford bag that says “Pussy Power!”
In truth, no one does black athleisure better than Wang. The always-giddy designer crafted this collection with the image of strength in mind. His overarching theme of dominance is spelled out in embellishments of the letters “CEO” placed as a subtle accent to his tops and leggings. Here, we see the use of underbust crop top sweatshirts, which are definitely going to be a trend this year. Several looks pay homage to the custom design in the Matrix from the glasses to the coats with a palette that bounced from black to white and a striking hint of hot pink. This collection is very functional and we need look no further than the runway for the “it girl” who will make each piece a must-have, Bella Hadid.
There was no shortage of melaninated goodness on the runway at Pyer Moss’ show. His politically-charged t-shirts released leading up to the show have been taking over social media. In anticipation of a politically-responsive collection, Moss’ designer, Kerby Jean Raymond, used his cultural knowledge and research to include garments that historically depicted the black cowboy of the 19th century, both in plight and glory. The approach has been seen before, however, his execution was not radical. The easily digestible design concepts makes this collection about using fashion for style and statement. Unsuspectedly, Vic Mensa dawned the runway, adding a moment of resonance that we as a culture are here to stay despite our differences. Raymond has made fashion activism a staple to his brand since 2015, where during his show he played a video on police brutality. This year, with the help of Raphael Saadiq, Moss’ models walked to the sound of a gospel choir singing songs to uplift like Kendrick Lamar’s “Alright.” He strategically-teased collaborations, with both Cross Colors and Reebox, used some of their iconic trims and style to accent his collection. This is also the first time Pyer Moss has made women’s clothing, though most garments skew as unisex.
Philipp Plein caught the interest of the hip-hop community last year when he invited a star-studded front row of entertainers to attend as Teyana Taylor vogued down the runway. Using this same marketing approach, Plein enlisted several young hip-hop stars, such as Christian Combs, and social media influencers. With a late start, the disgruntled audience was not as enthusiastic about the Migos performance or the giant spaceship but that probably had something to with the plastic snow sticking to their garments. Plein puts on a show indeed but this one was not as impressive as year’s past. The collection, however, was the most extra use of black. Similar to other designers, Plein reimagined athleisure and snow gear silhouettes. Most garments were bedazzled and paired with pops of color like his signature red, silver, pink and yellow. Overall the collection was a bit underwhelming and repetitive, although there is plenty to add spice to your everyday workout gear.
Ralph Lauren does it again. It’s sometimes surprising how this brand remains timeless. The designers use of a classic nautical primary color palette paired makes each piece perfect for setting sail. The models strut down a blue runway bare foot as if walking on water in beautiful blue and white gowns with prints that looked like fine China. As the show progressed there were a few new interpretations of this classic style displayed on jackets, one leather jacket was especially surprising as its shape is the motorcycle jacket but the stripes and colors give the piece elegance. It’s possible the designer made a recent trip to Jamaica as the Jamaican flag appears on many of the garments. There was no shortage of Bermuda shorts and ascots for the preppy looks that made the Ralph Lauren brand famous. Fortunately for those planning a vacation this collection is already available so book your trip and get you one of these pieces!
Corey Woods // Yeroc
Designer Corey Woods gives another fabulous show for his eye-catching accessories. In a time where knowledge-of-self is pertinent Corey Woods brings culture and history to the runway. He never falters to remember his roots both in heritage and those that support him. His latest collection is entitled Hieroglyphics which serves as a much needed celebration of black culture and it’s visionaries. Another admirable aspect to a Corey Woods show is he always does more than give the best goodie bags, it’s an experience. This years Tomb presentation left guest clamoring for more. The extremely beautiful models made it hard to even select which pair of glasses to get. In the words of Queen Cardi “I don’t wanna choose.”
Gypsy Sport remains rather unimpressive. While the overall look of the brand is wild, edgy, and slightly strange the mission to transform the look of “normal” is commendable. This brand makes a true effort to practice and display diversity in all aspects. However fashion week is about clothes and the tawdry destructive look of these garments is just unflattering. It completely evades the conventional approach to design and tailoring. Just looking at a glance you may think “was there a pattern designed for this?” Additionally the clothes just aren’t practical enough to be ready-to-wear. Now granted there is definitely a style maven that can turn this into magic but we don’t have that same vision.
Marc Jacobs has taken us back to the 80s and we’re not going with him! As grandiose as these garments are they are equally as revolting. The concept of strong shoulders and shoulder pads reinforce the depiction of a strong woman which in a time for #MeToo might be motivational. However the youth isn’t buying this collection. The vibrant color palette and unique silhouettes really were marvelous to look at, but thats it. If there is one thing we should do away with and never return to it is definitely shoulder pads. They just make no sense. They are dramatic and take away from the feminine figure. Granted there are probably several Grace Jones fanatics that may see the beauty in these pieces as wearable, but we have to see them pull it off. In truth if these jackets aren’t used in editorial whereelse? Now the dresses and pants on the other hand have a world of potential that can be matched with less exaggerated garments. We look forward to seeing how celebs and stylist add their own take on this collection.
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